Invisibly Mounting Models and Choosing Display Cases

Alpha Model Tech Share Series · October 2026 · 1/20, 1/24, 1/43 Scale
A complete guide to hidden mounting pins, magnet and acrylic mounts, custom plinths, dust protection and selecting the right display case.

01 · Why Mount the Model

A finished model sitting loose on a shelf is only one bump away from a broken mirror or a chipped spoiler. Mounting a model to a base does three jobs at once: it locks the car in a deliberate, level pose, it lifts the work above everyday knocks and dust, and it turns a single model into a presentation piece ready to photograph, exhibit or transport. The craft lies in doing all of this invisibly.

The Goals of Invisible Mounting

• Hold with certainty — the car must not slide, tip or lift when the base is carried by one edge.
• Show nothing extra — no visible screws, brackets or posts from the normal three-quarter viewing angles.
• Stay reversible where possible — let you remove the car for cleaning, detailing or resale without damage.
• Protect the model — a mounted, covered car is shielded from dust, spills, pets and inquisitive fingers.
• Improve photography — a fixed car and a clean plinth give consistent, shadow-free reference shots.

Start with the end in mind: decide before you mount whether the car must stay removable. Competition entries and museum pieces are often fixed with pins, while a sale piece or working collection is better with magnets.

02 · Mounting Principles and Forces

A mount fights two forces: gravity pulling the model down, and sideways inertia when the base is picked up or knocked. A solution that only supports weight does nothing against sliding.

• The centre of gravity of a finished car sits roughly at axle height, slightly forward of the cabin centre on front-engined cars.
• Four tire contact patches support the weight, but offer almost no resistance to sideways sliding.
• The underside offers the best fixing zones: chassis rails, floor pan, axle tubes, exhaust boxes and suspension mounting towers.
• Low, widely spaced fixings are the most stable; a single tall post under the centre allows rocking.

Never fix onto fresh paint: bonding magnets or pins before the clear coat has fully hardened can trap solvent, mark the finish or pull paint away. Allow at least one to two weeks of curing, and test an inconspicuous area first.

03 · Method 1: Hidden Metal Pins

The classic invisible mount is one or two fine metal pins running from a dark recess in the chassis into the base. Brass rod is the usual material; tungsten or steel needle stock gives maximum rigidity in the thinnest diameter.

1. Choose the anchor point — look for a thick, dark feature: axle tube end, inside an exhaust silencer, a chassis rail or a suspension tower. Avoid thin floor panels.
2. Select the pin — typically 0.8–1.0mm at 1/20, 0.6–0.8mm at 1/24 and 0.4–0.5mm at 1/43. Two short pins spaced apart beat one long one.
3. Mark and centre-punch the exact spot with a scriber.
4. Drill the chassis hole with a pin vise from the underside, only 3–5mm deep — never through a visible face.
5. Set the car on the base in its final pose and press lightly to transfer the pin positions.
6. Drill the base holes at the matching positions (in acrylic, use a bit one size larger through a backing board).
7. Dry-fit the pins; adjust until the car sits level with all four tires just touching or floating evenly.
8. Glue in stages — fix pins into the chassis first with a tiny amount of CA, then offer the base and secure with CA or epoxy. Wipe squeeze-out immediately.

Drilling without cracking: support the part on a flat wooden block and drill at slow speed with only finger pressure. Use a drop of water as lubricant on resin and metal. Do not break through the visible side — wrap a collar of tape around the bit at the target depth.

04 · Method 2: Neodymium Magnets

Magnets give the best removable mount: thin discs bonded into the underside of the car, with steel washers or opposing magnets buried in the base. Use rare-earth neodymium (NdFeB) discs, nickel plated to resist corrosion.

1. Roughen the magnet face and the chassis spot with fine sandpaper for adhesion.
2. Check polarity first — if the base uses magnets rather than steel, pair north to south before any glue is committed.
3. Recess when possible into the floor pan so the disc does not lift the car.
4. Bury the steel or magnet in the base from below, closing the underside with veneer or felt.
5. Test the slide angle — the car should stay put when tilted to about 45 degrees. Add a second pair if not.

Magnet alignment trick: bond the steel discs to the magnets first, offer car and base together so everything seats square, tack with a dot of CA, lift the car away, and finish with epoxy. Keep magnets away from electronics — never mount them near a lighting control board unless there is at least 10mm of separation.

05 · Method 3: Clear Acrylic Supports

When the car is to appear airborne, or the underside must stay untouched, a clear acrylic support is the answer — the standard technique for "flying" Group B rally cars, jumping bajas and banked-oval lean poses.

1. Choose 2–3mm clear cast acrylic for 1/20 and 1/24; 1.5mm sheet is enough for 1/43.
2. Make a paper profile of the cradle: a low U supporting two chassis points, or a slot that captures one axle.
3. Cut and file to shape, leaving generous contact area.
4. Heat-bend with a strip heater or warm water; or laminate strips with solvent cement.
5. Fix the cradle into the base through a slotted recess so only thin transparent fingers rise above the plinth.
6. Polish all visible edges through 600, 1200 and 2000 grit, then finish with a plastic polish.

Acrylic solvent can fog a whole case: solvent cements and their vapour can craze or fog acrylic — work with the cover well away, ventilate, and let glued joints de-gas for a full day.

06 · Other Mounting Methods Compared

Combine for confidence: for show cars that travel, the most reliable recipe is a pair of magnets plus shallow tire grooves — the grooves take all sideways load, the magnets take the lift.

07 · Choosing and Making the Base

The plinth frames the car the way a mat frames a painting. It should support the model, accept the mounting hardware from below and leave generous visual breathing room.

• Leave roughly 15–25% of the car's length as empty plinth at each end, and a similar margin at the sides.
• A low plinth (10–15mm) suits sports and racing cars; a taller stepped plinth suits grand touring.
• Line the underside with felt or rubber feet to protect furniture.
• Keep the top finish satin or matte — gloss tops reflect the chassis and compete with the car in photographs.

08 · Choosing the Right Display Case

A display case is first a dust seal, then a window onto the model. Measure before you buy: car length including bumpers, width including mirrors, height including the highest wing or aerial, then add the plinth height. Add at least 10mm of clearance in every dimension.

• Economy tier: thin acrylic one-piece cover on MDF base — shelf protection.
• Mid-range: 3–4mm cast acrylic, polished edges, wood plinth — collections and photography.
• High-end: UV-filtering acrylic or low-iron glass, aluminium frame, LED — valuable models and long-term preservation.

Read the specs: the cover thickness of 3mm is the practical minimum at 1/20 and 1/24; cast acrylic offers better optics than extruded; and if a model sits near daylight, UV-filtering acrylic or glass is the single feature that most delays paint fading.

09 · Dust, Moisture and Display Environment

• Avoid direct sunlight — UV and heat fade reds and blues first and can warp thin parts.
• Control humidity — aim for a stable 40–55% RH; avoid kitchens, bathrooms and exterior walls.
• Keep away from vents and radiators — cycling heat and moving dust age paint.
• Position above pet and child reach, and away from slamming doors.
• Seal the cover to the plinth with a thin foam tape strip.

Cleaning routine: blow dust off with a soft blower brush rather than wiping; clean acrylic with a microfibre cloth and an approved plastic cleaner — never paper towels or ammonia sprays. Sun damage is permanent — treat display location as part of the build.

10 · Transport and Show Day

1. Confirm the mount — tilt the plinth to verify magnets hold; check pins have no play.
2. Wrap the cover separately in a soft cloth so it cannot rub against the car.
3. Bag the base and car against packing dust, then seat in a rigid box with foam on all six sides.
4. Keep the box flat, labelled THIS SIDE UP; never transport a case on its side or end.
5. Carry delicate pieces inside the car, not in a hot boot that can exceed paint-safe temperatures.

Show-day checklist: mount checked, car level, clean and secure · cover polished, foam seal intact, nameplate fitted · soft brush, microfibre cloth, spare magnets and CA glue packed.

11 · Q&A

Q: Will drilling holes in the chassis reduce my model's value?

A: Not if the holes are tiny, sit underneath in dark recesses and the car stays level. Only a hole breaking through a visible face hurts value.

Q: How many magnets do I actually need?

A: Two discs, one near each axle, at every scale. A single centre magnet lets the nose or tail pivot when lifted; spacing matters more than pull strength.

Q: Should the tires touch the base or float above it?

A: Touching is usually the most natural look; a slight float suits airborne dioramas.

Q: Acrylic or glass for the cover?

A: Acrylic for almost everyone — lighter, safer and affordable in UV-filtering grades. Glass suits a permanent cabinet that rarely moves.

Q: The magnets hold against lifting, but the car still slides. Why?

A: Pull force and shear resistance are different. A magnet can grip vertically yet creep sideways on a polished plinth; shallow tire grooves are the reliable cure.

Q: How tight should the clearance inside the case be?

A: At least 10mm above the highest wing or aerial and 5–10mm around mirrors and bumpers.

Q: Can I add LED lighting without damaging the paint?

A: Yes. Fit the strip to the case or plinth, not the car, on low-voltage USB power, with neutral-white LEDs angled away from the body.

Join the conversation: show us how you mount and display your builds — hidden pins, magnets, clear cradles and custom plinths all welcome.
Build. Display. Preserve. — Alpha Model Technical Team · October 2026