Ferrari SF90 XX Stradale Building Guide — Part 2: Unboxing & Prep

Alpha Model AM02-0084 · Build by Break Wong

Opening the Box

Everything starts with the orange Alpha Model box — check every part before cutting or gluing anything.

After opening the product packaging, take out all the part bags and the car body. Due to the risk of damage during transportation by logistics companies, it is essential to first check for any missing or damaged parts. Components that are more prone to damage include the A-pillar of the body, brake calipers, rims and other small parts. After confirming that the parts are intact, inspect the photo-etched sheets for any bending or damage, and check the water decals for stains. Once all standard items are verified to be in good condition, you may proceed with the preparations for assembly.

Mould Quality and Colour Planning

Alpha Model's product moulds are highly precise, particularly excelling in car body production technology. The body shells feature accurate shapes, smooth surfaces free of burrs and shrinkage, deep panel lines and sharp edges. These characteristics significantly reduce the assembly difficulty, making them highly suitable for beginners.

Each car model has its own unique colour scheme and decals. Before starting the assembly, you may refer to real car photos and note the colours for each part on the instruction manual to facilitate painting later.

Tools to Prepare

During the production process of this product, it is necessary to prepare some essential tools in advance, such as:

• Panel lining pen
• Sandpaper and foam sanding pads
• Instant adhesive (CA glue)
• Tweezers
• Panel line eraser
• Hobby knife
• Photo-etch bending pliers

Having the right tools at hand improves the building experience and makes it easier for modelers to create high-quality static models.

Washing the Parts

Wash all parts with dish soap or other degreasers suitable for resin materials. Since the surfaces of the parts are coated with a release agent, painting without cleaning may lead to issues such as fish eyes, poor paint adhesion or peeling. After thorough cleaning, allow the parts to air dry completely.

The Display Nameplate

Alpha Model includes a dedicated nameplate corresponding to the car model in the photo-etched sheet of each product set. Modelers can paint the nameplate and display it together with the completed car model in a showcase box, adding a sophisticated finishing touch to the presentation.

Next article: Body Preparation (Car Body Preparation and Polishing)

Ferrari SF90 XX Stradale Building Guide — Part 3: Body Preparation

Alpha Model AM02-0084 · Build by Break Wong

Inspecting the Body Shell

A glossy paint finish can only be as perfect as the surface underneath it — spend your time on the resin body before any paint comes out.

First, inspect the various areas of the car body. Typical, slight unevenness may be found on the resin surface, such as faint parting lines, tiny pinholes or subtle print-through texture. Mark these areas mentally or with a soft pencil so you can track your progress while sanding. Pay particular attention to the A-pillars, the roof panel and the wide rear haunches, where the curves are tightest.

Sanding the Body

It is necessary to use regular sandpaper to sand the entire car body smooth and level, followed by using a foam sanding block to re-inspect for any remaining imperfections. Sand with light, even strokes following the curves of the body; the soft backing of the foam block follows the shape of the panels and prevents you from flattening the crisp edges Alpha Model is known for.

After sanding with regular sandpaper, you can further polish the surface several times using a high-grit foam sanding block. This will make the part's surface smoother and more suitable for painting. Work progressively through finer grits, wiping the body with a lint-free cloth between passes to remove dust and check your progress.

Tip: Hold the body up to a light at a shallow angle while sanding. Any remaining low spots or scratches show up clearly as the light rakes across the surface — this is the quickest way to find the areas that still need work.

Once the body is perfectly smooth, give it a final wipe down to remove all sanding dust. From this point on, handle the body with clean gloves or by the mounting tabs only — fingerprints and grease on the resin will spoil the paint job later.

Next: Paint & Body Decals

Ferrari SF90 XX Stradale Building Guide — Part 4: Paint & Body Decals

Alpha Model AM02-0084 · Build by Break Wong

Choosing the Livery and the Base Coat

For this build Break recreated the special-version livery shown on page four of the instruction manual — satin black everywhere except the exposed carbon-fibre parts.

Because the water decals are printed on a black carrier film to match this dark livery, Break painted the body shell glossy black as well, saving an extra masking step. Once the paint has fully dried you can proceed to apply the water decals directly onto the black base.

Applying the Water Decals

First, cut out the water decals you need to apply. Then, soak them in water for about 20 seconds. Use tweezers to gently transfer the decal onto the car body, adjust its position, and carefully squeeze out any excess water with a cotton swab. Finally, use a heat gun to soften the decal and press it firmly in place with a cotton swab so it conforms to every panel line and contour.

Urethane Clear Coat

After applying the water decals, you can proceed to spray the urethane clear coat. For this, Break chose Gaurant (BASF) Clearcoat 668. Apply three wet coats before stopping.

This particular livery is unique on the actual car: all areas except the carbon-fibre parts are finished in semi-gloss black, while the carbon-fibre sections stay gloss. Although the main body of the car is primarily finished in a semi-gloss texture, it is necessary to apply a glossy clear coat over the entire body at this stage — the gloss coat both protects the decals and gives the carbon-fibre areas their deep, reflective base. Do not apply too much, as excessive clear can negatively affect the final appearance.

Curing, Sanding and Polishing

After spraying, allow the clear coat to cure completely for 3–5 days. Once fully hardened, sand the entire body with 2000-grit sandpaper to achieve a smooth and level surface. Then use polishing compound to polish the areas intended for a mirror-like finish — the carbon-fibre panels — to a high gloss.

Masking for the Satin Finish

Mask off the areas that have been polished to a mirror finish. For this, KAMOI Kadokiri Mint Green Ultra Low Tack Masking Tape is used, and the Tamiya Anti-Static Brush (Item 74078) is recommended to clean dust off the surface before spraying.

Additionally, be sure to cut the masking tape with a hobby knife before use. Otherwise the edges may appear uneven, affecting the overall result — a clean knife-cut edge prevents paint bleed and avoids extra rework later.

Spraying the Semi-Gloss Clear

After all masking is completed, you can proceed to spray the semi-gloss clear coat (Mr. Hobby C-181). When spraying the semi-gloss clear coat, it is important to thin it adequately — avoid making it too thick. Apply multiple thin coats, carefully observing the uniformity of the sheen. Ensure even coverage and avoid applying too much thickness in a single pass. The unmasked carbon-fibre panels keep their mirror gloss while the rest of the body settles into the characteristic satin black of the real car.

Next article: Carbon Decals & Small Parts

Ferrari SF90 XX Stradale Building Guide — Part 5: Carbon Decals & Small Parts

Alpha Model AM02-0084 · Build by Break Wong

Carbon-Fibre Water Decals: The Basic Rule

Parts that require carbon-fibre water decals should first be painted black — then apply the carbon-fibre water decals over the black base.

Before application, carefully read the instructions and allocate the appropriate decal based on the part number. The SF90 XX uses carbon fibre extensively on its aero parts — front splitter, side skirts, rear diffuser, engine cover, the fixed rear wing and various trim panels — so there are many small decals to place. Patience is the key ingredient here.

Working with the Heat Gun

When using a heat gun on the decals, avoid prolonged exposure to prevent softening or warping of the resin parts. You can check the temperature by lightly touching the area with your fingertip — stop heating when it feels hot to the touch. A few short passes from a distance are all it takes for the decal film to soften and hug the surface.

Alpha Model's water decals offer excellent flexibility and adhesive strength, making them relatively easy to work with. With a bit of patience, each part can be completed perfectly. After all water decals are applied, spray a layer of semi-gloss clear coat (Mr. Hobby C-181) over the surface to unify the gloss finish with the rest of the car.

Finishing the Small Parts

The remaining resin and photo-etched parts are prepared in parallel: brackets and grilles are painted satin or matte black, the badge and emblem parts are picked out where required, and everything is test-fitted against the instruction diagrams. Keep parts sorted in small containers by assembly step — the kit contains hundreds of tiny PE and resin pieces.

Colour Code Table

The instruction manual provides the following reference colours (Mr. Hobby / Mr. Color codes):

• C-1 — Glossy Black
• C-3 — Glossy Red
• C-33 — Matte Black
• C-47 — Glossy Transparent Red
• C-79 — Bright Red
• C-92 — Semi-Gloss Black
• C-182 — Matte Clear (Flat Transparent)
• 666 — Varnish
• C-10 — Gunmetal
• Silver — silver in the broad sense, including chrome silver, fine silver, C-8, etc.; the specific type of silver for each part is chosen to suit the component.

Note: C-181 semi-gloss clear is used throughout this build to unify the satin-black finish — over the body after the livery decals, and over the carbon-decaled small parts as a protective coat.

Next article: Interior & Engine

Ferrari SF90 XX Stradale Building Guide — Part 6: Interior & Engine

Alpha Model AM02-0084 · Build by Break Wong

The Interior Tub

The SF90 XX cabin is an all-black cockpit — the trick is layering different shades and textures so the black does not read as one flat mass.

The interior tub is painted gloss black as its base, with carbon-fibre water decals applied to the areas that are carbon on the real car — the dashboard surround, console and trim pieces. Photo-etched mesh panels are used for the floor mats, and the two red fire extinguishers (parts R84 and PE10) provide a deliberate splash of colour beside the seats. The pedal set and perforated footrest are built up from PE parts (PE38, PE39, PE44, PE45).

Door Cards and Cockpit Details

The door inner panels (R45 / R46) combine carbon-fibre decal texture with the distinctive red upper trim panel seen on the real special-version car, finished with PE speaker grilles and trim (PE78–PE81, PE88–PE89, PE109–PE111) and the small water-slide badges (D192 / D193). The steering wheel is assembled from the resin rim (R72) and column (R54), with PE parts (PE57) and decals (D53, D54) for the switchgear — the yellow Ferrari prancing-horse badge on the hub is the focal point.

Seats and Seat Belts

The racing buckets are painted black with carbon-fibre texture on the shells; red stitching is picked out on the seat shoulders and headrests to echo the red door trim. The harnesses are made from woven fabric strap material with tiny photo-etched metal buckles — bend the PE buckle parts to shape with fine tweezers before threading the strap, and secure each junction with a dot of instant adhesive.

The Engine Bay

The twin-turbo V8 is the most colourful assembly in the kit: the intake plenum and cylinder-head covers are painted gloss red (R42, R51, R68, R69, R85, R86), the exhaust manifolds and turbo housings are finished in silver (K — use the appropriate shade of silver for each part), while the central engine cover and intake trunking are carbon-fibre decal over black. The silver exhaust system routes back through the chassis, and the surrounding frames and subframes are satin black (R24, R55, R82, R83).

The engine and interior sub-assemblies are built and painted independently of the body so that every hard-to-reach surface can be finished properly before the chassis is closed up. In the next stage the wheels, brakes and suspension join the running gear.

Next article: Wheels, Brakes & Running Gear

Ferrari SF90 XX Stradale Building Guide — Part 7: Wheels, Brakes & Running Gear

Alpha Model AM02-0084 · Build by Break Wong

Brakes: Discs and Calipers

Silver cross-drilled discs behind bright red calipers — the one pop of colour visible through the wheel spokes.

The four brake discs are finished in silver with the drilled-and-vented texture represented by the kit's water decals, which also carry the Brembo-style marking around the disc hat. The calipers are hand-painted glossy red with a fine brush, taking care not to flood the disc surface. A gloss clear over the red gives the calipers a wet, factory look, while the discs stay in a satin metal finish.

Wheels and Tyres

The multi-spoke rims are painted glossy black; each wheel receives a fine red pinstripe along the outer lip, applied as a water-slide decal. The yellow Ferrari shield goes in the centre of every hub. Before fitting the tyres, the tiny PE ring parts (PE13) are bent to shape — use tweezers to curve the etched ring gradually around a small round former so it sits flush inside the wheel, simulating the inner barrel detail. The rubber tyres are fitted last with the brake discs sandwiched between the wheel halves.

Chassis and Running Gear

On the chassis floor (R19), the silver exhaust mufflers and pipework (K finish) are installed first, then the black suspension and undertray components. The interior and engine modules built in the previous stage drop onto the chassis, and the wheels are test-fitted on their axles to check ride height and stance before anything is permanently glued. The roll-hoop / rear frame structure (R24, R55, R82, R83) is added behind the seats.

Exterior Detail Parts

The door mirrors combine resin housings (R36 / R37, finished satin black) with photo-etched mirror faces and carbon-effect mesh (PE59, PE60, PE86, PE87). The front bumper grilles are built up from resin parts (R81, R97) layered with PE mesh (PE50, PE69–PE71), and the twin exhaust tips are painted silver before the rear diffuser goes on.

Tip: Do a full dry-fit of body to chassis before the final glue-up. Check that the wheels sit centred in the arches, that nothing on the chassis fouls the body's inner walls, and that the glass parts have clearance — a minute spent adjusting now saves broken parts later.

Next article: Final Assembly & Showcase

Ferrari SF90 XX Stradale Building Guide — Part 8: Final Assembly & Showcase

Alpha Model AM02-0084 · Build by Break Wong

Badges, Glass and Body Details

With all sub-assemblies finished, the final stage is marrying the painted body to the loaded chassis — and placing the last few hundredths of a millimetre.

The body receives its final exterior details before the shell goes on: the yellow Ferrari shields are placed on the front wings as combination decal-and-PE parts (D184 + PE116), with the white-outlined number 16 riding just below them. Carbon-fibre photo-etched vent inserts (PE122, PE123) fill the front fender vents and the hood outlets, and the clear headlight lenses (R28) are fitted with their inner reflector detail. A thin red accent line runs along the front splitter, matching the pinstripe on the wheel lips.

The Fixed Rear Wing

The signature fixed rear wing — the first on a road-going Ferrari since the F50 — is assembled from the satin-black wing element with its carbon-fibre water decal (PE97), mounted on the twin support struts. The endplates wear the red-and-white special-version livery, and the wing is glued square to the rear deck. Once the exhaust tips, rear diffuser mesh and the SF90 XX Stradale badge decal are in place at the back, the glass parts are installed and the body shell is carefully lowered over the chassis.

Completed Showcase

And here it is — the finished Alpha Model AM02-0084 Ferrari SF90 XX Stradale in satin black, with gloss carbon-fibre aero surfaces, red accents on the splitter, side skirts, wing endplates and wheel lips, red brake calipers behind the black multi-spoke wheels, and the number 16 on the doors. The dark, muted finish lets the sculpted bodywork, the stacked rear wing and the exposed engine bay do all the talking.

Final Words from the Builder

Thank you all for following along with this build of the Ferrari SF90 XX Stradale. This Alpha Model kit is a pleasure to work with — the precise body moulding, deep panel lines, flexible carbon-fibre decals and comprehensive photo-etched details make even a complex satin-and-carbon livery like this one achievable with a little patience. Take your time with the black base coat, the clear-coat cure period and the masking for the semi-gloss finish, and the results will speak for themselves.

If you enjoyed this build guide, please give it a like and share it with fellow modelers. For more completed builds and works in progress, follow Break Wong on his social media channels. See you in the next build!

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