Hello everyone, I'm MameshibaCarp from Japan,
love building 1/20 Formula1 cars from scratch.
Let me share my latest finish work on here,
Arrows A18 in 1997.
 
First of all, my all-time hero is Damon Hill.
Thinking of reproducing the car that shaped his glorious career, I designed the entire car with fusion and printed the monocoque and powertrain with a 3D printer.
Engine cowling is made of GFRP, I tried making it as thin and removable.
Suspension arms are made of deformed brass tube.

One of my model-building policies is engines can be seen even after compilation, as oldies’ Tamiya kits.

If you have any questions about this model,
feel free to ask.

Best regards,

Carbon decale on the instrument panel area was too small, wrap it with third party carbon decale.

I hope the instruction sheet can be more high resolution, as i spend quite some time to find the correct parts.

Keep on building, cheers

Finally, my Ferrari 812 GTS is complete!

Finished in Rosso Fiorano metallic red, with an ivory interior and carefully detailed throughout.

It was a really enjoyable build, and I'm very happy with the final result.

Thanks to Alpha Model for this beautiful kit!

The most difficult challenge for CF application among any Alpha Model builds so far. Strongly recommended to simplify the work by chosing the version with less possible number of gills (the flat one - the best one). Got a flashback of old good days with Tobacco stickers - the livery is very close to well known classic livery of Ferrari in the past A tons of small, very small and ultra small decals all the way around this details. So much time consuming. Still think that decals are the best choice rather then white paint. Surface is too curvy, no chance for clean paint job.

Alpha Model Tech Share Series · 2026 · All Scales
Good weathering is not about making the model look old — it is about realism. Restraint, gradation and logical placement are everything. Here is a complete guide to weathering, filtering and chipped paint.

01 · Weathering – Core Concept

The essence of weathering is realism, not simply making the model look "old." Focus on:

• Subtlety
• Restraint
• Gradients
• Logical placement (based on real-world wear and usage)

02 · Weathering Powders / Pastels

Recommended Colors

• Very light grey
• Off-white
• Brown
• Earth yellow
• Dark grey / black

Basic Technique

• Use a dry brush to apply lightly.
• Lighter in the center, slightly darker on the edges.
• Build up gradually — do not apply too much at once.

Body Weathering Logic

(1) Lower Body Dust Accumulation

Areas: lower body panels, wheel arches, lower door edges.

Method:

• Use brown / earth yellow powders.
• Apply from bottom to top.
• Create a gradient (darker at the bottom, lighter upward).
• Avoid hard edges or visible lines.

(2) Wheel Weathering (Brake Dust)

• Lighter center, darker recesses.
• Use dark grey / black powder.
• Tip: apply panel liner first to enhance details, then add powder for a more natural effect.

(3) Tire Oxidation

• Use light grey-black powder.
• Gently brush on the sidewalls.
• Do not paint the entire tire black (it avoids a toy-like look).

(4) Chassis Dirt Effect

• Use brown-grey texture mud or diorama soil.
• Apply locally.
• Simulate real road dirt accumulation.

03 · Chipped Paint Effect

Materials

• Sponge (torn into an irregular shape).
• Paint: silver, red oxide (common primer color).

Steps

1. Dip the sponge lightly into paint.
2. Dab off excess paint on paper or your hand.
3. Gently tap it on the model surface.

Key Areas

• Edges.
• Raised details.
• Frequently worn areas.

Notes

• Avoid large flat surfaces.
• Civilian cars do not have heavy chipping.
• Keep it subtle, random, and minimal.
• Use primer color (e.g., red oxide) for realism.

04 · Filtering Technique

Materials

• Tamiya enamel / oil paint.
• Zippo lighter fluid / enamel thinner (lighter fluid is cost-effective and recommended).
• Flat soft brush.
• Lint-free tissue.

Mixing Ratio

Small amount of paint + large amount of thinner. Dilute to a very transparent, tea-like consistency.

Steps

1. Apply a thin coat from top to bottom across the whole body (simulates rain streaks).
2. Do not wait for it to dry.
3. Immediately use a clean tissue or a slightly damp soft brush to gently wipe the surface.

Desired Effect

• Color remains in panel lines, gaps, and edges.
• Flat surfaces should be mostly clean.
• Let it dry naturally for about 10 minutes.

Alternative: panel liner can also be used to achieve a similar filtering effect.

Color Suggestions

• White body: light grey / light blue.
• Black / dark body: dark grey / light brown.
• Red / blue bright colors: a slightly darker tone of the same color.

05 · Advanced Techniques

(1) Color Variation

• Use very subtle filters in different tones.
• Apply slight variation across panels.
• Simulate sun fading and aging.

(2) Streaking

• Apply small dots of paint on upper areas.
• Pull downward with a clean brush.
• Creates natural rain marks.

(3) Scratches

• Use a very fine brush to draw thin lines.
• Light inside, darker edges.
• Optional silver highlight.

(4) Edge Highlighting (Metal Exposure)

• Dry brush a very small amount of silver.
• Only on the most exposed edges.

06 · Common Mistakes

• Over-weathering (looks dirty rather than realistic).
• Harsh transitions (no smooth gradient).
• Chipping on large flat areas.
• Tires painted solid black.
• Filter too heavy (loses transparency).

07 · Summary

Good weathering is not about adding more, but about controlling effects. Remember three key principles:

• Restraint
• Realism
• Gradation

If it looks like natural wear instead of intentional aging, you have done it right.

Build. Detail. Inspire. — Alpha Model Technical Team

Alpha Model Tech Share Series · 2026 · All Scales
Getting a clear part to sit cleanly in the body opening takes patience and the right technique. Here is the complete windshield installation workflow, including curved-glass handling and Alpha Model's practical tips.

01 · Tools Required

• Hobby knife
• Tweezers
• Cotton swabs
• Masking tape
• Clear-parts adhesive / windshield glue
• Fine sandpaper (2000–3000 grit)
• Polishing compound
• Soft cloth

02 · Surface Preparation (Critical)

Before installing the windshield, ensure both the body opening and the clear part are clean and free of dust and oil:

• Lightly sand the opening edges with 2000–3000 grit sandpaper to remove burrs.
• Clean the clear part with isopropyl alcohol for proper adhesion.
• Always test fit before applying any adhesive.

03 · Handling Curved Glass

• Use tweezers to avoid fingerprints and scratches.
• Do NOT apply excessive force to prevent cracking.
• For large curvature, perform pre-forming (see Step 06).

04 · Adhesive Selection

• Clear-part dedicated adhesives are preferred.
• General-purpose option: TAMIYA CRAFT BOND (water-based) — dries clear, low risk of fogging, suitable for transparent parts.
• Apply adhesive in a thin layer to avoid overflow.

05 · Installation Steps

1. Apply a thin, even layer of adhesive around the windshield opening.
2. Hold the part with tweezers and position it carefully.
3. Press gently from one side and work across.
4. Remove excess glue with a damp cotton swab.
5. Let it cure for about 1 hour before handling.

06 · Complex Curvature Methods

Method A — Warm Water

• Soak in 40–50°C water for 30–60 seconds.
• Work quickly after removal.
• Fix in sections using masking tape.

Method B — Heat Gun

• Use low heat at a 10–15cm distance.
• Keep moving to avoid overheating.
• Shape gradually while heating.
• A hairdryer can be used as an alternative.

07 · Alpha Model Practical Techniques (Key Section)

Protective Film Strategy

• Do NOT remove the protective film before installation.
• After applying adhesive, fix all edges with masking tape.
• Apply gentle heat with a heat gun.
• Let it sit for 12 hours to fully cure.
• Remove the film only after curing.

Curvature Pre-Forming Technique

• Place the clear part onto a soda can or beer bottle.
• Fix with masking tape.
• Leave for 24 hours to form a natural curve.
• Choose the container diameter based on the required curvature.
• No need for perfect conformity — slight curvature is sufficient.
• This helps prevent edge lifting during installation.

Strong Bonding Option

• If bonding is difficult, use Bond G17 quick adhesive.
• Strong adhesion, but apply carefully in small amounts.

08 · Polishing & Transparency Enhancement (Advanced)

Method A — Pledge Floor Wax Dip

• Use a floor polish (e.g., Pledge).
• Pour it into a paper cup.
• Dip the clear part and remove it with tweezers.
• Place it on a support to air dry.
• Put paper underneath to catch drips.
• Result: significantly improved clarity and gloss.

Method B — Modeling Wax

• Use TAMIYA Modeling Wax.
• Enhances gloss and transparency.
• Better suited for fine model finishing.

09 · Finishing

• Lightly polish with a soft cloth and compound if needed.
• Clean any adhesive residue with alcohol.
• Inspect from multiple angles to ensure a proper fit.

10 · Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Using too much adhesive.
• Handling before full curing.
• Applying excessive pressure.
• Skipping the test fit.
• Overheating causing deformation.

Build. Detail. Inspire. — Alpha Model Technical Team

Alpha Model Tech Share Series · 2026 · 1/24, 1/43 Scale
Resin engine parts are softer and easier to carve than injection plastic, giving you room to add realistic pipes and surface detail. Here is the full modification workflow.

01 · Understanding Resin Part Properties

• Resin is brittle — work gently when sanding.
• Fully cured resin can be carved using sandpaper and modeling knives.
• Small gaps and details can be filled with A-B clay or glue.

02 · Basic Steps for Pipe Replication

1. Study Reference Photos

Before modifying, gather photos of real engines as reference. Pay attention to pipe routing, diameter changes, and connection methods.

2. Creating Pipes

Choose materials based on the scale of your model:

• Copper wire: ideal for thicker pipes, can be bent into natural curves.
• Nylon tubing: soft and flexible, great for curved intake pipes.
• Plastic rod drawing: heat with a hot air gun and pull into thin tubes for small fuel lines.
• Model-specific tubing: professional materials with various diameter specifications.
• Medical tubing: soft texture, good for curved effects.
• PE etched sheets: perfect for flat-shaped intake pipes.

3. Drilling Mounting Points

Gently drill holes at the corresponding mounting points on the engine part, matching the routing of real engine pipes.

4. Adhesive Installation

Secure the pipes to the parts using 502 glue (CA adhesive) or A-B epoxy. Be careful not to use too much glue to avoid overflow affecting the appearance.

03 · Filling and Refinement

This is the key step to achieving a perfect finish:

• Use putty to fill gaps, dents, and imperfections.
• Refine pipe curves for smooth transitions.
• Shape joints to match real pipe routing.
• Sand smooth for a clean, even surface.

04 · Texturing Techniques

1. Sandpaper sanding — progress through different grits (from 400 to 2000) to simulate the smooth surface of real metal.
2. Surface texturing — lightly sand the pipe surface to create a matte finish, mimicking real metal texture.
3. Engraving details — use scribing tools or fine awls to engrave panel lines and rivet positions for added realism.
4. Adding fine details — add small details like wiring wraps and clamps to restore the texture of real engine pipes.
5. Panel lining — use panel lining fluid or thinned paint to outline detail lines, adding depth and dimension to the engine surface.

05 · Painting Suggestions

• Metallic spray paint: apply thin multiple coats to avoid paint build-up.
• Weathering effects: add rust, oil stains, dust, and other effects based on your desired style.
• Gloss finish: use gloss varnish on engine block areas to simulate metallic reflections.

Build. Detail. Inspire. — Alpha Model Technical Team